"Great things happen in small places. Jesus was born in Bethlehem. Jesse Jackson was born in Greenville." - Jesse Jackson
TOKOPAH VALLEY. SMALL PLACE, WHERE GREAT THINGS HAPPEN. LIKE THE FIRST ASCENT OF A NEW BIG MEGA ALPINE ROUTE MANGO LASSI LULZ MACHINE IN NEAR WINTER CONDITIONS. WITH RATING OF 5.10+ AND LENGTH OF 620 VERTICAL FEET, HELL, I WOULD NOT BE SURPRISED IF IT WON THE NEXT PIOLET D'OR.
|VEry Dangerous approach|
|Setting up the bombproof basecamp after a giant two hour approach|
|Super secret spire ONLY LOCALS KNOW ABOUT|
"I really want people to understand that nobody is perfect and that things happen in life beyond our control." -Lil' Kim
Cool, obviously forgetting the drill bits wasn't my fault. It was a sign from above. A sign that before I get on that roof, I should be a little stronger. A little lighter, and know how to drill from shittier stances.
|Adam on 5.8 slab to start the first pitch|
|Me starting pitch two, looking like I should be on the cover of GQ|
|Adam enjoying 5.superfun jughaul on pitch two. Chicken heads for 50 meters!|
Anyway, first time I saw Tokopah Domes was on a cold ice climb, which at the time was a mixed climb. Moonage Daydream (wi4 M4) - The Watchtower. By some sort of a coincidence it was the first time Adam and I climbed together. I pointed it out to him that time and said "homez, do you think there are a lot of routes on those domes, they look clean bro!?" He was like "The Chief has done them before you were a sperm in your daddy's sack." Without a doubt it was very special to come back to Tokopah Valley and climb a new route on the Lower Dome with Adam.
|Cool friction 5.9 and a fun overhang on the third pitch|
|Must be some more climbing there somewhere?|
|Tokopah Falls are beautiful even from far away|
After telling Adam "If I blew that first stance I would go for a good one, maybe past the roof, if the marginal cam held." He looked at me with a smile and replied, "Oh you would go wayyy past the roof!" Maybe if I did not forget those damn drill bits a year ago it would be a different story?
INTERMISSION FROM CLIMBING, MY FEET NEED A BREAK..
|I wish my camp will have views of The Watchtower like this...|
|30 foot boulder we dubbed The Bear. Likely because it looks like a lizard.|
|"I am tired of slab climbing bro, let's dream of soaking our feet in an ice cold stream!"|
|Good design for a future tattoo. DA BRIM IN DA HOUSE!!!|
|Dose it qualify to be bomber? At least Donini would take it!|
|Good day, we didn't use our AK!|
|Taking the views in!|
|I will be back here again sometime! Likely to establish a v16 on the summit boulder|
|Time to eat, time to sleep! But first, let's make a fire and tip each other on how to become a better narcissistic sociopath|
|And if people wondered, the time to soak our feet did come. Wear your comfortable shoes on this one!|
Drink a Mango Lassi before climbing this route. Only good things will happen, trust me. And for those who naked free soloed the route back in 1975, put one in the chamber and prepare for torso parade! Happy climbing! ;)